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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happiness!!Found a cost effective solution to the
B-Max roof bars.

Just installed a set of La Prealpina
aluminium aero bars from ****'s Garage at a cost of around £110.


Please see photos below.


Good points :


-Seem very sturdy when fitted.


-Much cheaper than Ford runners and bars
(£700!)


-Easy to fit once assembled.





Bad points :


-Plastic plug fittings for the rubber feet
are soft and break easily, however it does not impair the rigidity once fitted.


-Instructions are confusing. Two sets of
conflicting instructions doesn't help.


-Missing instructions - no mention of
fitting the central locking peg on the rubber feet.


-For t-track accessories you have to prize
off the end caps with a screwdriver. A bit crude compared with Thule aero bars.


The plastic coated steel feet don't touch
the paintwork at all on the front bars, but the rear ones do. I'm going to put
a pad of self adhesive foam on the inside just to be safe. I'll use Paxmate
computer soundproofing foam as its black, about 3mm thick and very sticky.

The radio aerial will be fouled completely when the Thule roof bag is on there so it's going to require a bit of "bendage"


Overall, I'm happy. I've got roof bars for a fraction of the cost I thought I'd have to pay.

Please feel free to ask any questions and
I'll try to help.










Edited by: Kimdurose
 

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How Ihave only just found this post????
 

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Hi KimI've got my Prealpina roof bars but am concerned about the fit of the clamps. The door seal on my B-max prevents the clamp from getting a full grip on the metal roof (I have added thin rubber tape for protection). If I clamp on to the rubber door seal, it only grips for about 4-5mm. If I clamp above the door seal, then I'm only clamping on about 4-5mm of the metal roof. I need to post a picture to give you the full picture.
Your clamps look like the door seal is not getting in the way. Maybe my door seals are fitted higher.
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Brian
I tuck mine under the door seals so the seals are on top of the clamps. I'd send a photo but I'm in the other car today.
Kim
 

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Thanks Kim,That's the conclusion I was coming to - had to peel the glued door seal back a bit. But it does deform the door seal and the door pushes up really hard to it. Maybe it will fit better when I have the bars attached and really tightened hard. The front clamp edges don't exactly match the shape of the roof edge, but they will grip where it matters.
I find that self amalgamating rubber tape (plumbers rubber tape) stretches nicely over the clamp to make a thin protective coating.
I hope to put a 12'8""� SUP paddle board on the roof, with strap to the front towing point of course. Wish me luck. The board is the same length as the car!
 

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Thanks very much for the pictures Kim - I understand my problem now. As my door seals are stuck on higher than yours, I had to peel back the rubber edge that was stuck to the car, not the outer edge that seals to the door. Not by much, about 3mm or so, and the door still shut OK. I used only a little plastic tape as protection.
Interestingly, it wasn't until afterwards that I read the full instructions on tightening the final screws that fixed the roof bars. I was puzzling how I was supposed to measure 4Nm torque on my allen key but, being an engineer, did realise that the roof bar would curve downwards as I tightened the screw. Then I found it: the screws should be tightened until the bars retain just a little of their convex curve - about 3mm upwards at the middle. That was more helpful than torque.
 
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