[darren.gulliver]

Hi,

New here as I bought a 64 plate last week and battery seems to have drained (my fault left dash cam in 12v socket) Although manual says these sockets remain on for 30 min I suspect this was not the case.

Engine does not attempt to start but dash lights flicker and there is a ticking sound.

Multimeter shows a reading of 11.26v, whilst I don’t think battery is dead I do think I jump start is all that’s needed, is this ok to do? Last time I jumped started was on my 1997 Renault Clio, as new cars have computers in now I don’t want to cause further damage.

Thanks
Darren

 

[Hadrian1]

As far as I know there shouldn't be a problem. You'll probably find the voltage drops when you try to start it.
My 2014 model had a flat battery after having it for a a month or so. When not used for a few days during snow.
The dealer did a computer update, and it's been ok since then, even when going away on holiday and not using it
for a week. All electrics should shut down after a few minutes as per your Renault.

Maybe others can comment ?

 

[Gremlin]

yes you can jump start it in much the same way as you have always done

however, for the negative, connect this to the chassis. (not the battery terminal)
positive does go to the terminal.

this is because the system monitors the battery.

see page 122 /123 of
http://www.bmaxownersclub.co.uk/bmax-manual.pdf

 

[Hadrian1]

That's a handy thing to know

 

[cianpars]

Glad you mentioned that Gremlin. I assume that this applies to both the car with the dead battery and the one you are jumping from.

I always keep leads in the car, which ive never needed myself, but have been able to use them to help others out a few times.

Interestingly, I always jump from a car with the engine running to avoid the battery being drained on the supplying car - not sure if this is the correct way.

 

[carlrobinson]

Hello I'm new to this forum.We bought our Bmax from a non Ford dealer in June this year.It's an auto,1.6 engine on a 64 plate and we are also having starting problems.Its been back to the dealers 5 times for the same problem. They fitted a new battery after the 2nd visit and that seemed to cure the problem for a good few weeks. Two weeks ago the engine refused to fire up again and this time they took it to an auto sparky who did a full check over 2 days and could not find any fault on the system. After getting the car back,the following morning it refused to start again with a dead battery! Yet again the sparky had it for 2 more days and,yes you've guessed, no fault found. I have just read on another site that the fault may be in the reversing sensors on the bumper. It's possible that moisture could be causing the battery to discharge itself? I am now going to put the battery on a trickle charge overnight to ensure it starts tomorrow morning. If not then it's another jump start off next doors car and back to the dealers first thing on Monday morning and demand its sorted or they can keep the car and give me another one of my choosing.

Carl Robinson (Northumberland)

 

[Hadrian1]

Last winter when we had a lot of snow and I didn't use my BMax auto for three or four days.
When I went to start it the battery was flat. I took it to the dealer under warranty, and they said they
did a computer upgrade. It's been alright since..

 

[TheInstructor]

I can honestly say my 1.6 diesel is a belting BMAX for starting and charging. I do a 25 mile round trip each day to/from work, during dark hours at this time of year, it is parked outside so I need to use the heated screens and wipers etc.. and I have not (up to now had any drama or sound of a drama) with it starting and it is 3 1/2 years old.
To correctly use your car to start. Connect the jump leads to your battery terminals, both of them. Be careful of them shorting at this point. Connect the negative to the dead cars engine (not battery) then the positive to the battery terminal. Your car can be running at this point with the dead cars ignition on, this puts some charge into the dead battery. Then switch your car off, completely OFF. Then start the dead car, once running, immediately remove the jump leads. And viola! Keeps everything safe on both cars. I know of HGV'S that do require the good vehicle to remain connected to the dead vehicle for some 20 minutes, this is to stop the alternator from attempting to overcharge the dead battery. I do not know of any car manufactures that promote this.

 

[cianpars]

My process is:
1. Start the donor vehicle and leave running.
2. Connect the black wire to earth on both cars.
3. Connect red wire to positive terminal of both cars.
4. Start the donee vehicle.
5.Disconnect both ends of the red lead.
6. Remove black lead.

Is this process OK?

 

[Gremlin]

My process is:
1. Start the donor vehicle and leave running.
2. Connect the black wire to earth on both cars.
3. Connect red wire to positive terminal of both cars.
4. Start the donee vehicle.
5.Disconnect both ends of the red lead.
6. Remove black lead.

Is this process OK?

its ok, but [for neg earth cars] better to connect both ends of red/pos wire before the black/neg, and vice-versa for disconnect.
this is so if you accidentally 'drop' a cable onto the engine/bodywork the risk is minimised.

also note, the little lithium battery starter packs are actually very good. (perhaps a chrimbo prezzie idea! )

 

[TheInstructor]

Cainpars. I would recommend not leaving the good car running whilst starting the dead battery car. Because you have them wired up in series and charging in the same way, you are effectively putting 24 volts minimum charge into both 12v batteries. Just my interpretation of what I have come to know, believe and follow.

 

[Gremlin]

Cainpars. I would recommend not leaving the good car running whilst starting the dead battery car. Because you have them wired up in series and charging in the same way, you are effectively putting 24 volts minimum charge into both 12v batteries. Just my interpretation of what I have come to know, believe and follow.

no this is not the case, the batteries are in parallel, not in series.
quite safe to have both running.

ps, I referenced the owners manual in an earlier post, and it says to run the donor engine at a reasonably high speed, and to leave them connected for a few minutes after starting the other car.

 

[TheInstructor]

Hi gremlin. You are obviously correct with the parallel thing and if you've read the destruction manual and the best practice procedure. Then go by that. I do much prefer to use the method (s) that I've become used to, and never having had a problem I will continue to do so. I do however understand the younger generation going by what they are now taught, I doubt many of them bother reading the instructions on how to best do it, and given many of their patience thresholds. I also doubt they will ask for advice.

 

[Hadrian1]

Interestingly, I always jump from a car with the engine running to avoid the battery being drained on the supplying car - not sure if this is the correct way.

Indeed, that's the way I have always done it, disconnecting once the car has started. No point in ending up with two flat batteries. :wink:

 

[cianpars]

Using a running donor vehicle, I have seen cheap jump leads getveey hot though if left on too long.