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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just popped down to the shops and noticed that the inside fan blower has stopped working apart from when it's on full. Tried various options, ie windscreen setting, direct 'in the face' setting, foot blower setting - none of them work unless it's on full blast. The air-con seems to operate ok. I put the heat control onto 'max' and again it only worked when I turned the blower knob to full.

Does anyone know why it should do this suddenly? Is it something the garage will have to fix? We did have one unrelated incident back in February when it was cold and the heater didn't seem to work for a day, then the next day it was all fine again! All very odd. The service manager at the garage where we had it serviced said he'd never heard of such a thing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you - looking at the link, it seems it might be that. I wondered if it might be a fuse, as in the handbook there are 2 fuses, one for full fan power and one for the rest, so will check that first. Would a clogged cabin filter just reduce the air-flow rather than what we have, which is no air-flow at all?

If the fuse is ok, might see if I can locate the heater resistor and see if it looks like it's no good, sounds like a fiddly job though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Btw, is the 'cabin filter' the same as the 'odour filter'? This was replaced at the last service done in May this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just found another thread that confirms that they are one and the same...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also, realised that the fuses I referred to were for the engine cooling fan, not the interior blower...(learning all the time!)
 

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blower only working on full is most likely the 'heater resistor'
a fairly common problem

though it can also be a clogged cabin filter

see
https://www.bmaxownersclub.co.uk/forum/14-technical/1469-faulty-heater-fan-control.html
This exact same issue has just happened on my parents B-Max

Will try removing the pollen filter first, but if it were the pollen filter would some air not get through on at least setting 3 even if it's clogged because as soon as I put it on 4 the air blasts out.

Is changing the heater resistor an easy thing to do or not yourself?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I imagine that a clogged filter would only reduce the air flow. In my case, this filter, which is called an 'odour filter' by Ford, has been replaced a few weeks ago as part of the annual service. The link that Gremlin provides...

https://www.bmaxownersclub.co.uk/forum/14-technical/1469-faulty-heater-fan-control.html

...does have some comments where people have described replacing the heater resistor - sounds like you need to be fairly agile and use a headlamp-type torch to be able to see what you're doing while lying on your back with your head in the footwell (having first removed the plastic panel). As I'm 61 I'm not sure if I 'qualify' as being agile, but I'll have a look anyway to see if I can manage it - my husband is too tall to even consider it!

A set of torx screwdrivers will also be needed (not sure which size, so maybe just the one if you can find out which). I'm going to attempt it once the weather's a bit drier. I think I've located a place to buy a replacement, although searching on the internet doesn't seem to bring up many alternatives for the B-Max version...or else they are so cheap (eg on Amazon) with reviewers saying they didn't last very long - I don't want to have to do it again too soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's the one I found - on another site though - https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/topran/13896920

I'll have to wait till I get the old one out to check, I guess - unless someone else confirms it. I'd love to know if you, jonnypb, find out how difficult it is to replace!
 

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it certainly looks to be the right part,
I haven't done the job myself, but I think the resistor is very close to the cabin filter. (just to the front of the car from said filter)
could either of you please take a couple of pictures while doing the job, and post them here, - thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will do - not sure when I'll be doing it though, building up to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I managed to get the thing out, mercifully there's only one screw holding it in but it's difficult to actually see into the space and undo the screw at the same time (especially as I have to wear 'reading' glasses for close work!)

Now the problem is that all the online sources I've found are out of stock...will have a look at eBay I suppose. I could try Ford but probably a lot more expensive than the other options...

Have added photos as requested, including the offending object which already had the bent bit when it came out. I don't have an AVO meter so can't tell if it's faulty, but presumably it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Your link goes to a part that doesn't look at all the same and hasn't got the B-Max listed either as being compatible.

The second photo shows the footwell and mat, which is the best I could do to show the actual component in position.

The thing that looks 'broken' is just where the resistor (?) is attached and the metal connector is bent - I saw one for sale on the Ford site (see link) which was also 'bent' in the same way, so I wondered if it was deliberate in order for it to fit into the hole? However, even though it looks the same (and costs over £60) they don't show it as being compatible with the B-Max :-(

https://www.fordpartsuk.com/heater-resistor-6186

All the metal parts are quite stiff so it's not as if it's become bent on installation. Everything seems all securely attached and not broken.

I've put the panel back for now, but will take another photo when it's off, to show the footwell and mat from further away, which may help.
 

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I did some checking on the parts lists
and you are right, its the more expensive "Heater Resistor - 1804471" for the bmax

and yes please a photo showing the general context/position of the switch, I guess lefthand footwell. (even just a picture of the panel that has to be removed while its still in place) should help others trying the same job.

many thanks!

ps parts list at
https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/48/no/0/1703/16160/70576/#18591
3rd item in list, and pictured bottom left as 18591.
 

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Yep, cabin, odour and pollen filter are one and the same. I know 3 people who have had these symptoms and all were caused by a blocked filter. However, since yours has been replaced, it seems like the resistor is the likely culprit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here are some more photos to help others locate this thing - I've annotated them and will also add the previous pics again, showing the panel removed. Incidentally, I'm going to take the old resistor to a party tonight as the host used to work with me as a school science technician and has an AVO meter to test it with - want to confirm it's actually faulty before trying to locate another, being as they seem to be hard to come by.


Picture 1: - Passenger footwell showing the panel with one Torx screw (T27) to be undone. Then the side panel can be unclipped carefully

Picture 2: Close up of the T27 screw (partly undone)

Picture 3: The other end of the side panel by the seat runner, partly unclipped

Picture 4: Flexible soft cover beneath the glove box which can be removed easily by unclipping two push-on connectors near the front (fairly obvious what to do when you look) - allows a bit more visibility in that whole area with it removed

Picture 5: The corner of the footwell with cover on, to compare with the following photo showing the cover removed...

Picture 6: The same corner of footwell with the cover removed and the grey electrical connector unclipped. To unclip that, you have to press the middle bit in and pull it out of the socket at the same time (you can just see the white heater resistor and the screw you need to undo to remove it) - was a bit fiddly but I managed it

Screw is a Torx T20. I put the Torx 'bit' into a small socket (held in with Blu-tac to prevent it falling out), and connected it to small ratchet to make it easier to undo (see photo 9)

Picture 7: Close up of the heater resistor with the electrical connector still in position

Picture 8: Heater resistor with connector removed - shows how it clips into place at one end and then secured with screw at the other. I had to stick my phone into the gap to photograph this, not able to actually get my head near enough to see it, so I'm hoping I can put the new one in position by feel and then screw it in.

Picture 9: My bespoke tool
 

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Managed to get mine out, but all the part numbers had worn off on it. Went to my local TMS and they didn't have the part in, the 3rd party part that was on there system wasn't even in stock with their supplier. Eurocarparts didn't have it either. Both said i'd have to go to a Ford dealer, which will probably cost £££££. Can't find anywhere with it in stock at a reasonable price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I contacted several online car breakers on Friday and had a reply today from one. They give a 90 day guarantee so hopefully the component will work once installed and if not I'll get a refund - they had good reviews, so sound reputable. Was about £17 including next day delivery - fingers crossed I can actually get it installed ok!

jonnypb, did you find it difficult to remove? Any tips?!

Funnily enough, as I said in a previous comment, I took the old one to a party last night to try and test it. I met my host's son who had trained as a motor racing mechanic a few years ago and then was the manager of a garage. He said that those parts all seem to go wrong on any make of car, particularly Renaults, I think. As I was showing it to him, another party guest said he'd just replaced something that looked the same in his daughter's VW. The ex-mechanic said that a garage might have to remove the whole dash assembly to replace it if they weren't able to do it by fiddling about the way we have - so would probably cost an arm and a leg as well as the cost of the part!
 
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